Do not be misled into thinking that muzzleloading shotguns and conventional shotguns shoot exactly the same. They don't. It took me several pounds of Pyrodex RS powder and a case or two of clay targets to learn how to correctly judge lead, especially on crossing targets.

Wingshooting is wingshooting, regardless which type of scattergun you choose. However, it's been my experience that lead distance has to be increased when shooting muzzleloading shotguns. Even with the fast lock time of today's frontstuffers there is a very minute delay between the time the trigger is pulled and the shot is on its way. This delay is often so slight it is almost undetectable but, believe me, if you don't take this millisecond of ignition delay into consideration your shot pattern and target will not arrive at the same place at precisely the same time!

The only way to perfect lead with your frontstuffer is by burning some powder. Fortunately, muzzleloading propellants are cheap. A pound of Pyrodex costs less than $20; black powder is a few dollars less than that.

Let's give a little thought as to how a muzzleloading shotgun is actually loaded. I like to pre-measure both shot and powder before heading to the field. Plastic, 35 mm film containers are excellent for storing pre-measured shot and powder. Once in the field, keep these containers in a shooting bag along with wads.

Prior to loading, it's a good idea to shoot two or three percussion caps. This will remove any moisture or oil from the breech area. Remember that oil and water are the primary causes of misfires with muzzleloaders. Obstructions in nipples will also cause your muzzleloader to not discharge. When it's time to load, lean your shotgun away from your body and pour in the powder first. Use the heel of your hand and give the barrel a sharp whack; this will cause the powder to settle down to the breech area.

Next, place a felt wad in the barrel and seat it over the powder with the ramrod. Remember watching those frontiersmen on TV and the movies? Ever see them repeatedly poke the ramrod down the barrel like someone working a churn plunger? This is not the way it should be done. Just keep a steady pressure on the rod and push it all the way down the barrel. Once the wad is situated on top of the powder charge, a little tap or two will help compact the powder. Next, pour your shot down the barrel and cover it with either a cardboard or felt wad. Personally, I prefer felt wads. However, I have heard that if conditions are very dry they can become a fire hazard. I don't perceive them to be a real problem. Still, for safety's sake, keep in mind that a smoldering felt wad could conceivably start a grass fire in parched fields.

With your "ready roll" load in place in the shotgun's breech, you have now successfully constructed a shotgun "shell." Put a cap on the nipple, and you're ready to fire.

Thorough cleaning is another inherent part of shooting muzzleloaders. Cleaning black powder or Pyrodex residue out of the barrel requires a bit of work, but I found it to be nowhere as time-consuming or unpleasant as I had heard.

I do not use soap and water to clean my muzzleloaders. There are several excellent cleaning solvents on the market that do a very good job of removing the fouling. It's important to remove the nipple and give it a thorough cleaning, inside and out. Use a pipe cleaner to clean the inside of the port then blow through it. Your breath should pass easily through the nipple. If it doesn't, there is still some fouling inside and more cleaning is required.

Remember, the fire from the cap must pass though the nipple to get to the powder charge. A clean nipple ensures fast, positive ignition; a dirty one is a heartbreak waiting for a place to happen! Nothing is more frustrating than drawing down on game and having the cap pop but the primary charge not ignite. Keep an extra nipple or two on hand and you can avoid the lion's share of these occasional misfires.

When I first began shooting frontstuffers several years ago, an old buckskinner gave me a few pointers about cleaning and preventing rust. "Think of the barrel of your muzzleloader as a cast-iron skillet," he instructed. "After cooking with cast-iron what do you do before putting it away? You grease it, right?"

I was beginning to get the picture. This old-time muzzleloader shooter suggested giving the entire piece a good cleaning, then using a natural lubricant (just like putting grease on a cast-iron skillet). A hundred years ago, bear grease was considered one of the better and most accessible of lubricants. I have seen darned few bears in North Texas where I live and have resorted to a product called Natural Lube. It contains no petroleum, which is one of the major causes of misfires.

After cleaning my muzzleloaders, I give every metal surface a light coating of Natural Lube. This includes the threads on the nipple and the inside of the barrel. Using this method-which again, excludes the use of soap and water-I have had very minimal problems with corrosion. I suspect had I been using water to clean the metal parts, I would have probably missed drying a spot or two and created ideal conditions for rusting.

You will discover that in muzzleloading there are many practices that work. I am only relating some of the things I have learned through the years. They work for me, but there could very well be other cleaning methods that work even better. This continual learning process is much of the intrigue of muzzleloader shooting.

In this era of instant gratification, shooting a solidly built muzzleloader is a welcome relief. But beware: You'll probably find your muzzleloading shotgun to be the center of attention at the annual dove shoot.

Sure, you'll get a little good-natured kidding. But you can also bet that the majority of those buddies doing the ribbing will be anxiously waiting their turn to "pop a few caps" with your new shotgun that shoots those "ready rolls!"